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Eating For A Better Planet: Serving Up Sustainable Cuisineby Rachel Golub
November 20, 2002
With the recent passing of the 2002 Federal Organic Labeling law, the USDA has brought organic food to the mainstream. Lucky for us, the Greater Boston area has a good selection of retailers providing a range of organic products to the average shopper. To understand how the choices stack up, it’s helpful to put the organic food and sustainable agriculture movement into perspective.
Sustainable agriculture can be loosely defined as farming systems that maintain their productivity and usefulness to society for an indefinite period of time. Sustainable agriculture does not deplete soil resources, pollute nearby waterways or poison soil with pesticides and chemical fertilizers that limit the use of land in the future. Sustainable agriculture conserves resources, is community- and socially conscious, and environmentally sound. Organic farming is a specific type of sustainable agriculture – perhaps the most conscious and strict of the many ways in which food production can be improved to help both the consumer and the environment.
The current widespread interest in organic food began as a reaction to industrial agribusiness and gained momentum after the Alar scare in the late 1980s, when the chemical, widely used in growing apples, was found to be carcinogenic. Organic food consumption surged to record levels. Even The Wall Street Journal; took note of the trend on October 3, 1989. “The American public's knowledge of the dangers of pesticides in food has been greatly increased. Overnight, suppliers of organic produce cannot keep up with demand. Traditional supermarkets are opening pesticide-free produce sections.”
Over the past decade, the organic food market has seen significant growth. So while organic agriculture represents a mere 2 percent of the food supply in this country, that figure has more than doubled since 1992 and now represents a $9 billion market, which is growing by 20 percent a year, according to the 1200-member Organic Trade Association. This expansion has taken organic foods out of the fringe and into the fridge – and into local supermarket aisles.
Organic foods have become increasingly popular for the simple reason that consumers are increasingly asking the question, “Where does my food come from?” Empowered by the desire for better quality, and fresher and tastier foodstuffs, consumers can now decide to spend their money at establishments that nurture the environment and promote sustainability.
However, while consumers may still think of “organic” as simply “pesticide-free,” experts see much more at stake. Kathleen Merrigan, the director at Tufts’ department of Food, Agriculture and the Environment (and one of the architects of the new Organic Labeling law) explains, “A lot of people recognize organic as the ‘absence of’ – the absence of pesticides, the absence of fertilizer, the absence of sewage sludge, the absence of GMOs. But actually, ‘organic’ holds many other positives too, since organic farmers are required to do soil building, and seek to build healthy living soils. They’re feeding the soil by a variety of techniques, but primarily though a diversity of crops. They are required to provide humane care to their animals, they’re required to take special action to protect sensitive waterways.”
New Federal Standards Emerge
The Organic Labeling law, which went into effect on October 21, 2002, codifies current organic standards practiced under certification programs that stretch across the US. Among the requirements to be considered organic, foods must be pesticide-free and cannot be genetically modified, and farmers cannot use treated sewage sludge as fertilizer.
Specifically, the new federal labeling standards require that food products must conform to certain standards to be labeled organic. Foods that are made with only organic ingredients, with the exception of salt and water, are now labeled “100% organic.” Foods that are composed of only 95 percent organic products are simply labeled “organic.” Foods in either of those categories are able to use the USDA organic seal on their packaging. The label “Made with Organic Ingredients” now applies to foods that are a minimum of 70 percent organic.
Naturally raised and organic meats are also grown much differently than their factory-farmed counterparts. Under the new labeling law, certified meat should have no antibiotics, no growth hormones and the animals have to be fed 100 percent organic feed. Organic farm animals must also be treated humanely, while conventionally grown animals are often grown in unhealthy and even putrid conditions. This has led to widespread antibiotic use in herds and meat irradiation during processing to kill dangerous bacteria.
It’s also worth noting that the concept of sustainability of seafood has also emerged as a commercial priority. The US State Department reported in a statement on October 28, 2002, “the habitat damage and harmful fishing practices are endangering the ecological and economic benefits produced by some of the most diverse and productive ocean ecosystems of the United States.”
The Pew Oceans Commission released a report in October of this year, stating, “Worldwide, some 25 to 30 percent of all commercial fisheries are experiencing some degree of over-fishing, with an additional 40 percent heavily or fully exploited.” Dr. Dayton, the chief author, suggested, “If we are serious about saving our fisheries and protecting the sea’s biodiversity, then we need to make swift and perhaps painful decisions to preserve and maintain the oceans’ ecosystem.”
Sustainable Food Comes to Town
Protecting the sources of high-quality food is where sustainable food production comes into play. Sustainable food production supports the family farm and the artisanal cheese maker or wine producer. While actual farm stands offer only limited options for urban dwellers, there are a number of sources for fresh organic and sustainable foods in the Boston area. By pursuing these opportunities, consumers can shop locally and help the environment while at the same time dramatically improving the quality of food they consume.
Home Delivery Choices Abound
Maybe you like to be surprised and challenged every week? If so, Boston Organics is a great way to get fresh organic produce. While living in San Francisco, Boston Organics founder Jeff Barry got hooked on organic produce that he and his wife had delivered each week. “It inspired me to cook and learn about new fruits and vegetables,” says Jeff.
Upon returning to the northeast, Jeff found that there were not as many options for getting organic produce delivered in and around Boston as there were in San Francisco. Because he was already looking to start a socially responsible business, Jeff quickly started working to create Boston Organics. “I walked through Beacon Hill through Back Bay into the south end … up Mass Avenue to Davis Square putting up flyers,” Barry explains. Two and a half months later, he began delivering produce every Tuesday and Wednesday to Boston and its many boroughs, Arlington, Belmont, Cambridge, Brookline and Newburyport, and he is open to adding other neighborhoods as well.
Boston Organics sells produce that is both fresh as well as delicious. Much of the produce comes from small farms as well as organic produce distributors. Barry delivers the produce to his customers within a day of picking it himself. Boston Organics offers a $25 box and a $35 box that can be delivered weekly or biweekly. His customers can also specify items they do not want to receive; otherwise, expect a mystery box. The $25 box generally contains between 9 and 12 items, while the $35 dollar box contains between 10 and 14 items.
This tree-hugging entrepreneur has started a socially conscious company that brings sustainable food to his customers. Each week he includes a newsletter stating where the produce comes from as well as storage tips and recipes.
Try It, You’ll Like It
Food in the 21st century is as varied and diverse as the people who are eating it. While corporate industry has brought growth and change in many areas, often improving efficiency while trying to feed an ever-growing global population, the quality of food and the environment itself often seems to suffer with technological advancement. The further something gets away from its natural state, the more dangerous it can be.
There are different ways of thinking and living. Buying food that will sustain and nurture the planet will at the same time sustain and nurture its inhabitants. “Sustainable shopping,” so to speak, is not only about health and protecting the environment; it’s also about a rich and satisfying palette. If food production is treated like a craft, it will continue to excite and enhance life. The organic movement is growing by leaps and bounds. The more it is recognized as a viable alternative, the more mainstream it can become in the marketplace.
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